January 16

Days 19-21  Falklands-Malvinas (Cont'd)

After three days at sea we pulled into Stanley Harbour just before breakfast this morning.  It's a Falklands requirement that we go to Stanley before we land anywhere else, so given that we want to be back at sea by mid-afternoon that kind of limits our options for seeing much of the islands.  Oh well - we've been lucky with the weather up until now.  We probably missed out on seeing nesting albatrosses and rockhopper penguins but we've seen albatrosses in the air and, lord knows, we've seen hundreds of thousands of other penguins.  

I see my phone automatically updated to a new IOS overnight.  What I didn't realize right away was that when it did that it took my phone off airplane mode and dropped the wifi.  So - I can't wait to see my bill for roaming charges; ugh..........

We started ferrying guests to land shortly after 8.  They had arranged for a big bus to take us out to Gypsy Cove.  I signed up for the 11am trip, so had a few hours to explore town first.  Stanley, the capital of the Falkland Islands, is this main settlement on East Falkland, known for its quaint, colourful buildings, British heritage, and historic harbour.  It serves as the political, economic, and cultural hub.  It is home to 2/3 of the islands' population.  Tourism and fisheries management are major economic drivers, along with government and services.  The Falkland Islands are a British Overseas Territory with internal self-governance.  The UK takes responsibility for their defence and foreign affairs.  I believe they are economically self-sustaining, and rank 10th worldwide by GDP per capita.  Unemployment is very low. 

Wikipedia says the town is located in one of the wettest parts of the islands.  And - it was raining (lightly) when we landed.  Pretty windy too.  We were accompanied by three or four Commerson dolphins on our zodiac ride to town.  

Sites to see................

The Anglican Christ Church Cathedral (the southern-most Anglican cathedral in the world) opened in 1892.  The stained glass windows are the church's most vivid feature.

The Whalebone Arch was built in 1933 to commemorate the centenary of British rule in the Falklands. Made from the jawbones of two blue whales, it was presented by the South Georgia whaling stations.  

Lots of reminders of the Falklands "War", which we have learned was never declared a war by either side so is more correctly called a conflict.  

The police station also contains the islands' only prison, with capacity for 13 inmates.  

The post office, with proper British telephone booths and post box.  This building apparently also houses the town hall, philatelic bureau, law court, and dance hall.

The home of the local newspaper.

I spent a bit of time in the Historic Dockyard Museum.  I thought it was really well done and I could have spent a lot more time there.  

Oh yes - the Office of the Legislative Assembly...........

The Falkland Islands flag.  

Given her actions in 1982, Margaret Thatcher is well honoured here.

War memorial from 1982.  There is also one further down the waterfront to WWI that I didn't get to.  

Government House, built in 1845 and home to the Governor of the Falkland Islands.  

And of course some souvenirs shops where I bought a few small items.  

Just 3 of us (plus 2 guides) were on the 11am bus to Gypsy Cove.  We lucked out - the rain stopped, the sun came out, as did some Magellanic penguins.  It was really beautiful - lovely ferns, a white sand beach, and beautiful (almost tropical) looking water.  Lots of bird life about as well.

Apparently life in the Falklands may be about to change.  Seems the first-ever oil rig is in transit to here.    

Just before dinner now, and the sea is still relatively calm.  Apparently the captain has the "pedal to the metal" and is trying to stay out in front of the storm.  Late tomorrow is forecast to be the worst of it. 

Another good day, but I'm a bit disappointed to not really see anything in the Falklands other than Stanley.  It's been a great trip, but a lot of days at sea right at the end.  Oh well - we did very well to get as many landings in as we did on the Peninsula and on South Georgia.  Trip of a lifetime!  

There was an afternoon session about other trips that Aurora runs.  I wouldn't hesitate to travel with them again.  I think Svalbard would be next on my list.  Maybe the summer of 2027.